Creating a watch that is truly ‘Made in the USA’ is a challenge that many American
watchmakers face. While American watchmaking has a rich history of craftsmanship, the
modern landscape has shifted dramatically. Today, companies aiming to use the prestigious
“Made in the USA” label must navigate a complex array of regulations and practical constraints.

The Legal Framework

According to the Federal Trade Commission (FTC), the “Made in the USA” label requires that
“all or virtually all” significant parts and processing must be of U.S. origin. This means that the
watch’s components, such as the movement, case, dial, and even the crystal, must be sourced and
manufactured within the country. For American watchmakers, this rule presents a considerable
challenge, as many components, especially movements, are more readily available and cost-
effective from established international suppliers.

In contrast, other countries have more lenient standards. For example, in Switzerland, only 60%
of a watch’s parts by value must be of Swiss origin to earn the “Swiss Made” designation. This
gives Swiss manufacturers greater flexibility in sourcing components while still being able to use
the well-regarded “Swiss Made” label. The UK and Germany have similarly flexible
requirements, allowing watchmakers to use a combination of local and imported parts without
losing their national branding.

The Issue of Movements

One of the primary challenges is the movement, the heart of any mechanical watch. Achieving
the level of quality and precision required for high-end watchmaking is a complex and costly
endeavor, requiring significant investment in machinery, technology, and specialized labor. This
is one of the reasons why many American brands still rely on movements sourced from other
countries. Producing a reliable movement from scratch domestically means a considerable outlay
of resources, something not every watchmaker can afford.

Balancing Costs and Quality

Producing every part in the U.S. can drive up costs to levels that are unsustainable for many
businesses. Manufacturing gears, springs, and screws with the precision needed for watchmaking
involves highly specialized equipment and skilled labor. Companies that choose to produce all
components domestically often find themselves in a position where they must charge premium
prices, which can limit their customer base. In contrast, international competitors can often
produce components at a fraction of the cost due to established supply chains and economies of
scale.

Supporting American Watchmaking

For the handful of American watchmakers who are truly dedicated to hand-making watches
domestically, support is critical. These manufacturers represent the revival of an American craft
that was once considered among the finest in the world. They emphasize traditional
watchmaking techniques, producing parts by hand or with highly specialized equipment, often
working with suppliers who also share a commitment to American-made components.
Supporting these artisans not only helps preserve American watchmaking heritage but also
fosters a new generation of skilled craftspeople who can continue to elevate the industry.

Looking Forward

For companies aspiring to bring back American watchmaking, the key lies in innovation,
collaboration, and education. Investing in the development of American-made movements and
components will require patience, financial resources, and a focus on craftsmanship. As new
technologies and techniques emerge, there is potential for growth in this space. However,
overcoming the challenges of achieving a true “Made in the USA” watch will require a
continued commitment to the principles of quality, authenticity, and the pursuit of excellence.